Welcome to the Chef's Office where great minds and palates meet The Chef's Office January 2001 Roasting Meats and Vegetables Welcome to the Chef's Office Welcome to the first issue of the Chef's Office. The Chef's Office basically is a synapsis of conversations some Chef's and culinarians have. Our first issue is about Roasting Meats and Vegetables...to read the conversations in their entirety please visit us at Culinary Artists, we really get into some cool conversations. To view the personal biographies of most of the people included in this newsletter please check them out at http://geocities.com/thechefsoffice2003 and if you would like to post your pic and bio please do by sending them to thechefsoffice2003@yahoo.com Roasting Meats... When I first presented the idea of organizing a newsletter to share some of the great conversations we have from a variety of different chef's and culinarians and housewives/husbands worldwide, we all jumped at the idea, thought it was an idea we could have some fun with. So, welcome to "The Chef's Office " Cheffy poses the question: " Got in this conversation last night after reading the article in R&I about roasting meats and veggies What are your favorite methods of roasting? Sear not to sear? Slow and low? Intense then lower heat? On pan or raised off of the pan? Favorite meats to roast?? Favorite Veggies?? Stuffed poultry, fowl or meats?......" (then the CheffyBabbles rebuttal...) "...When sitting and thinking about my question, I realized how difficult and broad my questions were to write about... There are of course, millions of ways to roast meats, poultry, fowl, game and vegetables. In my opinion, I love long marination of meats and confusing the tastebuds...I enjoy both personally and professionally combining a variety of senses...sweet, sour, bitter and salty and if I can discover a umami, I will add that also, but sometimes that quest is difficult... In general, I love combining a majority of the tastebuds in the entree, whether protein or vegetarian based, a neutral starch (or an in-between between the protein and vegetable...probably something soothing and sweet) and either a sweet or very aromatic vegetable... Throughout my professional life I have done a variety of things, but not until recently have I really taken a serious consideration to soy and soy products as a substitute for my salt in my marinades and rubs for roasting meats...meaning soy sauce, homemade teriyaki sauces, hoisin or oyster paste, miso among countless others. In Asian culinary philosophy, it combines sweet, sour, spicy and salty...and thanks to the provocation of my buddy Bento, I have learned and created some really cool stuff thinking along this line... To sear or not to sear? This is a tough one...if the piece of meat is small and manageable I marinate it for days and sear it (this excludes fowl or poultry, just red meat). I have never marinated a top round and seared it, but heck, it sounds like a great idea to me...or maybe larding or juicing the meat with something that I used to combine the tastebuds with...hmmmm...just an idea...have never tried it, but I may next time I have to cook one.... As far as the plate is concerned...like aforementioned, I like to make the starch a neutral flavor, saffron is good, coconut milk used in pilaf is good, using a sweet sauce to compliment the protein is really good because it flavors the neutral starch and the protein at the same time, and I like my vegetable to be a total contrast of the protein or a very flavorful variety of garlic and herbs, no matter what the veggie is...It just makes life interesting...chungachungabam baby.... As far as methods of roasting...it varies on the product...If I sear a product, whether it goes from the char-grill or not, (and sometimes it doesn't because I work in such volume), it is slow and low...If I am doing a larger piece of meat, I like to blast it to begin with to seal the exposed portion of the meat and then turn the heat down and let it cook for a very long time with low or no air. And although at home I like to raise any meat or other protein off the pan to allow air to circulate, I do not necessarily worry about this at work. Roasted Veggies???? Although sometimes I get really tired of seeing them, I LOVE roasted parsnips...tossed in an infused oil and an aromatic herb, (like garlic and basil or tarragon)...man they are so good.... Other than that...I can ramble all day about my obsession with roasted peppers, especially poblanos and sweet reds...well seasoned roasted potatoes,(especially Hayman's), asparagus, carrots, the many varieties of squash, zucchini and eggplant...that list is endless primarily because at home I am basically a vegetarian, and... Cheffy Loves Roasted Veggies...ha ha Did I forget to run my mouth about Roasted Garlic??????...... Ah.... Maybe next issue... Peace, Hugs and Cookies, Cheffy" It took Keith some thinkin', but he finally got around to his rebuttal...Chef Keith pointed out some really good points not only from a Chef's point of view but from a consumers point of view as well... Chef Keith Says: "...OK Mikey-you asked for it...now ya got it! Let me start by saying that I respect your philosophy of "experimenting" with foods greatly. After all many foods have been discovered by experimenting-take potato chips for example...discovered on accidental serendipity of a smart assed chef like us-but that is another post on fried foods. I for one love for my taste buds to be confused...and if I were cooking for a panel of chefs, then I would follow in your footsteps Michael. But I do not think it is appropriate to deliberately try to confuse the taste buds of someone ordering a simple Prime Rib Dinner. The type of person who orders a prime rib dinner is not typically looking for that innovative apex of extremities and cutting edge creativity bordering on insanity...they are the middle of the road patrons who are thinking about a simple good piece of red meat. Do we agree? Provoking thought now... I prefer to simply try to perfect the mimification of that classic roast as done hundreds of years before me. I present it in such a manner of trying to expose and showcase the rib roast. After all, thats what they want....THE MEAT! They arent paying $30 a person for the starch and vegetable. Instead of throwing exotic ingredients from the orient at it like miso or wasabi-I prepare it simply and perfectly with focus on my talent of roasting correctly. I might put other ingredients on the plate for texture differences-but the flavors will probably be neutral, (like roasted garlic mashed potatoes) and other components will be few. Simply seasoned with fresh herbs, salt, pepper, garlic and shallots. Served with classic au jus and perhaps a perfect popover to absorb all of the juices. Oh yeah-as boring as it might be to chefs-ya just cant beat a perfectly seasoned, roasted piece of beef with good bread!!!! Begging for a glass of red wine now....it has stood the test of time and always will...... Roasting Beef-here's a new one that I recently learned that-believe it or not-is absolutely perfect. Season your rib roast with S&P and sear it on the hottest surface of your kitchen. Then roast it in a 225 degree oven until it achieves your desired internal temperature. Mine is 130 degrees.....then let it rest. The end result is this: Searing is done to achieve color and a little caramelization that will not be achieved due to the low cooking temperature. But what you will have is a PERFECT piece of meat that is medium rare all the way through from the center of the cut to the outside. Unlike the typical 350 degree roast that is crispy and browned on the inside layers and medium rare just in the center/middle of the cut. MY SECRETS REVEALED HERE BABY! Roasting Poultry and Pork (excluding pork tenderloin)-BRINING must be done to attain the perfect roasted status. It keeps the meat tender while seasoning. Pork tenderloin needs little to no prep for roasting.....unless you ask Mike and he'll tell you to use chipotles, poblanos and some other crazy stuff like sesame oil with tofu...haha Favorite Roasted Veggies-Potatoes (especially fingerlings), Peppers, Garlic, Fennel (with a little balsamic) Cauliflower (try it you'll love it), Winter Squash, Tomatoes....hell almost anything. Of course the history and science of roasting has changed quite a bit. It used to be a one directional type of cooking on a turning spit with wood burning accents and smoky flavors. Now it is more convectional heat with gas or electric ovens.....I guess to be correct nowadays we should call it oven-roasted! In the end it is always about time and temperature control-the most powerful aspect of any good cook's repertoire. Keith..." Now to our buddy Chef Tom, a Certified Executive Chef from Upstate Ohio, one of the greater stimulations for good conversations and trips down memory lane... "...Well you chose a good topic to start with Mike...I really enjoy this cooking method, whether it be a high-heat roasting or a long and s-l- o-w roast. You can build layers of flavors by roasting meats and beginning with wet marinades, spice pastes or dry rubs. I really like to smoke-roast...add that extra layer of flavor. I will generally serve it as is or with a sauce. Or I'll have fun coming up with a relish, chutney, or salsa. I like marinades because of the way they blossom with fruit based flavors, herbs, wines and spices. The flavor range runs from sweet to spicy, piquant to fruity, with lots of zesty flavors throughout. I'll do a long soak with a tougher cut of meat to tenderize it, or a short soak for poultry or vegetables for flavor. My basic rule of thumb with rubs and pastes is that highly spiced rubs tend to work better on meats and poultry, while the pastes work better on seafood. Spice rubs will seal in juices by forming the crust on the outside of the meat to keep the inside juicy. This is great when searing or high- heat roasting...I love that crust you can achieve by doing this. For the long and s-l-o-w (smoke) roast, a spice rub will surrender all of its flavor to the meat while on its way to tenderland. Pork butts, ribs and briskets are my favorite to slow-roast (add that hickory or applewood too!). Pastes have moisture. I'll use pastes on seafood to keep the seafood moist and without overpowering it. Also, marinades may break down the flesh of some seafood if left in too long, pastes will add the flavor without ruining its texture. I don't usually marinate fish or seafood. Again...good topic to begin with Mike. I'm hoping that the deep fat frying topic is going to be low on your list of subjects. haha > Spice rubs will seal in juices by forming the crust on the outside of the meat to keep the inside juicy. This is great when searing or high-heat roasting...I love that crust you can achieve by doing this.> I meant to comment on this the other day when you were dicussing this and Keith made a comment on searing his prime ribs. Searing is awesome before the roasting process. The crust is a nice accent to a piece of meat. Although, one of my favorite items to sear is Tuna. Give it a chili spice rub or coat the steak with crushed toasted fennel. Gotta be served rare to mid-rare...MMMMMMMMM good. Chef Tom..." Marlene, a friend of Cheffy's and a personal chef in the Chicago area brought up some pretty good points in the opposite side of the spectrum which I found a good compliment to the conversation: "...Ok took me awhile to think about this.... first off I agree with you cheffy, on the surface your question seems like a piece of cake but........ I needed alot of time to think about this because it made me rethink why I cook the way I do currently. I have made many adjustments and changes to my meat cooking methods from what I learned as a child, etc. Unfortunately the meat we remember eating when grandma made it (my mom passed when I was 9 so grandma cooked) is not the same as what we eat today. Because of pressures to lower fat in American diet, breeders are breeding and raising animals to be leaner. Thus, losing some of the flavor and producing dry less tender juicy meat. When we cook meat now using recipes from older cookbooks, or grandma's recipes, we are often disappointed. Pork comes out hard, dry, and juiceless; beef and lamb lack the succulent texture and robust flavors we remember. The new meat demands a new approach to prepare so that they are tender, juicy and full of flavor. Now you add in the different cuts of meat and so many choices it is mind boggling. No wonder people are confused and make shoe leather. Depending on how thick the meat is and what part of the animal it is from is going to also determine how I am going to fix it. Shanks I will sear, roasts ...sometimes and sometimes not, it all depends ....I guess that it comes down to the cut of meat and thickness and what I am going to do with it and how I am going to serve it as to whether I am going to sear it or not. Now lets talk flavoring meats......seasonings can be as simple as dry rubs - or marinades, flavored bines (thats hwat I call them) for pork chops or pork loin - solutions of salt, water, sugar, spices. Or if crusted I would cook the meats differently, depending on what I wanted for the end product. Now for kicks I tried a can of apple juice and set a seasoned chicken on it and grilled it. It was my version of a non alocholic drunken chicken.....tasted awesome....... Marlene ..." LouAnne "Wasabimommy", a pastry chef from Missouri adds to what Marlene had shared... " NOW...as to the roasting...I did a bit of it this week....the best turn out...the roasted veggies....large cuts, marinated in raspberry vinegarette, roasted till edges turned...I was worried that people would find them too much....but that and the rice pilaf went first..I was really amazed since like the rest of you know that rice is usually the second choice...by most...I also roasted a top round..slow...250....wrapped in peppered bacon....a little garlic a little onion....thats it..raised the temp just at the end....perfect medium all the way through...whew.... Did turkey breast with honey and seasonings..slow again..and a ham with my all-time favorite Harry and Davids pepper and onion relish used as a glaze....to those that don't know me..I keep a case of it around at all times....it is my magic ingredient....and everyone gets it for gifts...lol...they just opened two new outlets here in St Louis... Cheffy Closes it up with a rebuttal to Keith " In response to Keith... Of course there is absolutely no substitute for the traditional service of a good piece of prime served with au jus, nor a replacement for the good ol carved steamship served with silver dollar rolls and horseradish If either are done properly and perfectly...nothing compares really..." "...One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well..." Virginia Woolf
Thursday, December 24, 2009
Cheffy and Friends Talk About Roasting Proteins-January 2001
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